24 Prince   

24 Prince St # A
New York, NY 10012
212-226-8624
www.24prince.com

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As if a place that serves heaping plates of mac 'n' cheese made with smoked gouda and pancetta needs anything more to recommend it, 24 Prince also boasts a convenient Nolita location, warmly designed space and an admirably affordable list of familiar and food-friendly wines -- Oregon pinot noir, Napa zinfandel -- to complement its hearty comfort-food menu. This is your momma's meatloaf, and her fried chicken, too, but there's an irreverent soul in the kitchen, stuffing deep-fried spring rolls with mac 'n' cheese or tweaking shortcake with pineapple, ice cream and a sweet-spicy Thai basil sauce. You might be inclined to overlook the potato-leek soup, but then you'd miss the chance to decipher the origin of its sublimely smoky undertones. The daily specials tempt with dishes like crabmeat ravioli that're light enough to resemble shumai, and the space stays open late with a limited menu and a comfortable basement lounge.