Trattoria Tre Venezie   

119 W Green St
Pasadena, CA 91105
626-795-4455

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With such a glut of Tuscan cooking throughout Los Angeles, it's refreshing to find an Italian restaurant that highlights the delicacies of the country's northern regions. Trattoria Tre Venezie explores edible exotica from Veneto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Trentino-Alto Adige -- hence the name. If it's authenticity you cherish, rest assured that trading in the traditional fava beans and sun-ripened olives for more Austro-Hungarian influences is perfectly acceptable. At Trattoria Tre Venezie, hearty pastas and seafood plates are the emphasis, and range from the pappardelle con sugo di coniglio, or braised rabbit, to the sauteed calamari with poached peas, tomatoes and peppers. Chef Gianfranci Minuz adds unorthodox touches like a side of steamed pumpkin to his broiled duck breast, and a chilled soup that marries fresh cantaloupe with green bell peppers. Of the fish options, try the fresh ahi, which comes in a simple but tasty marinade of olive oil, oregano and lemon, or the polpettine de pesce, a seafood medley in lobster broth. If chasing your mountain cuisine with fresh strudel sounds distinctly Bavarian, the warm, gracious service does reminds you that at Tre Venezie you're still a paisano. -- Jeremy Horelick