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If you ever endured night sweats wondering whether dried cranberries would ever make it onto a burger, you can finally sleep dry and rest assured. At Jeff Weinstein's design-your-own-burger fest, the co-founder of Firefly in Studio City offers forth more unique color combinations than a Rubik's Cube. At The Counter, it's a five-step process. Choose a certified organic beef, turkey or veggie burger (1/3 lb, 2/3 lb or one pound) and then one of eight cheeses, four toppings, a sauce and finally, a roll to house the easily-toppled creation. (Toppings range from grilled pineapple to roasted corn and black bean salsa, while sauces include a caramelized-onion marmalade and mango chutney.) Inside a cool, retro setting with a distinct modern flair, check off everything you want on the clipboard menu for lunch and simply hand it to the woman behind the cash register. For dinner, tableside service is available. Trying to stay faithful to that Atkins' regimen of no carbs, The Counter's "Burger in a Bowl" -- mixed baby greens and a bun-less burger -- is essentially the only salad option, but ordering any one of these culinary skyscrapers without a bun never leaves you feeling deprived. And for a side dish you won't find anywhere else, try the crispy, fried spicy dill pickle chips, while for dessert a more traditional, yet superb apple crumble has everything you need out of this sweet, southern surprise except the porch swing.