Arnie Morton's the Steakhouse   

435 S La Cienega Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90048
310-246-1501
www.mortons.com

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In recent years, the steakhouse chain industry has grown to mega-Porterhouse proportions. With Mastro's, Lawry's and Ruth's Chris among others, there are now more meat markets per capita in Los Angeles than there are freeway bottlenecks. But none of that has fazed Arnie Morton. Chicago's Sultan of Sirloin has landed the popular franchise in over 60 markets, including the exclusive Beverly Hills locale at Le Meridien, about two blocks from The Beverly Center and a mile from Rodeo Drive. This installment of the famed Morton's brand routinely ropes off the entrance to accommodate private parties and events. During awards season, you'd better have a high-octane agent or nominated film if you hope to see Morton's classically stylish interior. Once the ceremonial glitz subsides and the restaurant's doors fling wide for the public, in rush everyday filet fanatics and rabid ribeye-seekers. Your server's spirited tableside presentation may, however, coax you into delectable non-bovine-based standouts such as Shrimp Alexander in beurre blanc or a broiled center-cut swordfish steak in bearnaise. A standard suite of steamed fresh vegetables join appetizer staples like lobster bisque and broiled bacon-wrapped sea scallops, and desserts include Godiva hot-chocolate cake and key lime pie, in addition to fruit-flavored souffles (for two). With over 175 vintages, the wine list is extensive for a chain, and boasts enough options for pairing with poultry and seafood entrees, even if such a choice does invite consternation from the red meat mavens. -- Jeremy Horelick