M Cafe de Chaya   

If you're the type that likes food with integrity, this quick fix of macrobiotic cuisine is the virtual Chinese medicine of chow town, appeasing vegetarian appetites along with the occasional guilty conscience. At M, the rice used in sushi is organic brown instead of white. And you won't miss out on proteins -- they come as seitan instead of meat. Once you enter the spotless, modern setting, you can order at the counter merely by pointing at your lunch or dinner inside the glass showcase (where the sushi, salads and panini dwell), or by ordering something a bit more elaborate off the menu such as the teriyaki-glazed tuna burger or the California club sandwich (a triple-decker festivity with meatless bacon and soy mayo). Feeling quite comfortable as an indoor/outdoor cafe, the crowd is mostly Melrose casual and even though none of the sugar, eggs or dairy products is refined, some of the restaurant's guests definitely are. Finally, much of what M offers is prepared in advance, so it's easy to grab a quick bite or sensible bento box on your way to the Hollywood Bowl. Overall, the food is clean; the presentation keen; and the table service virtually non-existent.