Lawry's the Prime Rib   

100 N La Cienega Blvd
Beverly Hills, CA 90211
310-652-2827
www.lawrysonline.com

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Lawry's is a fixture on La Cienega's Restaurant Row, directly across from rival beef purveyor Arnie Morton. You can practically hear the mooing from the freeway, beckoning hardcore carnivores into its supper-club den of indulgence. Warm woods and parquet floors convey the elegance you expect from an old-fashioned steakhouse. In fact, the descending chandeliers and high-backed chairs almost make Lawry's a caricature of a Golden Era bistro, where studio chiefs puffed Cubans and haggled over bottom lines and cuts of ribeye. And the cuts come in spades, from the smaller California cut to the six-decade-old Lawry cut, the restaurant's standard generous allotment. Throw in the English cut and the Diamond Jim Brady cut, and you start to wonder if you're shopping for steak or an engagement ring. Accompanying the varied chops is the usual lineup of baked potatoes, creamed spinach and asparagus, but try the whipped-cream horseradish for an inventive changeup. If all the thick slabs have you seeing red, opt for the daily fresh fish special or the Atlantic lobster tails. And should the meat turn out too mild, don't forget that Lawry's founder Lawrence Frank built his empire not just on beef, but seasoned salt as well -- just the thing you're looking for when you've got serrated knives flying all about your hands. -- Jeremy Horelick