Cobras & Matadores   

7615 Beverly Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90036
323-932-6178

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Even on a winter weeknight, this tapas restaurant can go from zero to jam-packed within an hour of opening its doors. It definitely speaks volumes about the popularity of the food, not to mention the rowdy, friendly atmosphere that's just perfect for dinner parties. Couples too often find themselves squashed into a corner, but medium-sized groups -- or twosomes that don't mind merging into larger groups -- have a great time. The tapas menu is perfect for picking and poking, splitting and sharing. Sample Spanish cheeses, grilled octopus, fried potatoes, Serrano ham and various other tasty little nibbles from the selection of approximately 20 small plates. A few larger plates, including a very popular skirt steak, are available. The place has worked around its lack of a liquor license by opening a wine shop next door that sells all Spanish wines, sherries and cavas, plus lots of great domestic and imported beers for a very low markup. Or, if you prefer, you can bring your own bottle ($5 corkage). Expect a wait, regardless of whether you've booked a table -- the boxy, dark little dining room can't accommodate all the would-be diners, even on the kitchen's most efficient day. -- Lena Katz