Cheng Du Restaurant   

The sign outside reads Cheng Du, but the frosted doors still proclaim this as the former Chung King, a Westside establishment for several decades. On any given night, the joint is packed with couples huddled together in the softly lit booths and families circling tables crowned with an overflowing lazy Susan. Cheng Du continues the Chung King tradition by preparing dishes in a lighter, more healthful style. Polite, informed servers will help you decide when you're feeling overwhelmed by the multi-page menu, which includes fat and calorie counts for select items: Tofu a la Cheng Du (named for the capital of the Sichuan province) weighs in at less than one gram of fat per serving. Keep in mind that the restaurant's hefty dishes contain multiple servings; two entrees and an order of rice provide enough to satisfy three hungry patrons. The stand-out dish is fried rice (any flavor will do), a flavorful, addictive and moist (no heatlamps here) concoction. Just don't go looking for the fat content on the menu -- it's suspiciously missing.