Vert A Brasserie By Wolf Gang   

6801 Hollywood Blvd # 411
Los Angeles, CA 90028
323-491-1300
www.wolfgangpuck.com

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Just when you thought Wolfgang Puck may have burnt himself out on wood-fired ovens, he once again throws his puffy toque into the ring. Placed strategically in the Hollywood & Highland complex, Vert marries both formal and casual styles in design, decor and in Puck's somewhat signature fusion cuisine -- this time of the French-Italian persuasion. Your first indicator that you're entering a new generation of Puck-dom is that wine lists, dinner and dessert menus all come framed within futuristic metal tablets. Underneath sleek flood lighting and ceilings made of aged barn wood, lunch and dinner come off as enlightening as the sunflowers that separate you from the open-air kitchen, another trademark of the Puck franchise. Start with a hot bowl of Vert's very cheesy onion soup, or a heaping mound of mussels in garlic and butter topped with a sourdough slice. From there the selections include a peppery veal New York steak presented with sweet melted leeks, and their grilled tuna with cannelini beans, arugula and basil butter. The dessert menu tempts with a chocolate souffle and flaky, warm apple tart. Unlike Puck's other creations (think Chinois, Spago and Granita), prices are more reasonable at Vert, though there's bound to be fewer star-sightings due to its location inside a heavily trafficked and touristy mall complex. Still, all guests should feel comfortable knowing that if they don't see Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston divvying up slices of Puck's pizza, there's always the sidewalks outside for those who want to gaze at Hollywood stars. -- Gregg Rosenzweig