Axe   

1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd
Venice, CA 90291
310-664-9787

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With decor that recalls a medieval dungeon and a name that's almost guaranteed to make you feel out-of-the-know (logically, it should rhyme with "max," but in fact, it's pronounced "ah-shay" because it's Portuguese... duh!), this restaurant feels very 'LA Story.' There are the handsome, black-clad servers and the well-groomed customers. There's the earnest, oft-repeated commitment to organic, farm-fresh ingredients. There are the furnishings -- fashionably grim, with slab-like stone tables and small black benches instead of chairs -- and the walls, which are stark white and completely bare. But the food is what saves this place from being a nine-day wonder or a studio set piece. It's inspired, healthful and delicious. Simple starters such as mixed baby greens and homemade soup shine because of the freshness of the ingredients. Artisan cheeses, antipasto and flatbread are perfect for sharing. The whole roast trout is a signature entree, while salmon and sea bass are also highly recommended but not on the regular menu. The limited wine list includes some very interesting finds. Prices are medium-high, but as anyone who's ever "gone organic" knows, they could be a lot worse. -- Lena Katz