Busy but soothing, Zen Palate is a vegetarian Pan-Asian neighborhood favorite. It doesn't necessarily cater to the vegetarian lifestyle, and sells soys and glutens as such, in dishes without names like un-chicken such and such, or the word "steak" in quotes. They also serve a large and creative selection of vegetable proteins: There's Shredded Heaven, with three different kinds of shredded soy and wheat gluten, moo shu Mexican style, made with soy gluten in spinach crepes with guacamole sauce, and even soy pasta with ginger sauce. Although the cafe is more popular, fine dining is available in a tranquil, wood-and-rice-paper trimmed room, and the menu includes more soy incarnations such as a tofu crepe with chestnuts, vermicelli, and soy protein in a light curry sauce. With its several Manhattan locations, Zen Palate is quietly converting diners to its life philosophy. -- Dan Glass (Photo: B. A. Van Sise)