Hicksville is known by most Long Islanders as the place to go for lamb tikka masala or to buy a sari. House of Dosa is one of the many Indian restaurants that line the street, but it distinguishes itself from the other ethnic fast-food joints: It's destination dining where the food speaks for itself (though not literally). You know that an Indian restaurant full of Indian diners is going to be good, but you may not realize how good until you've bitten down on a Pondicherry cheese masala dosa served with coconut chutney and sambar, a spicy sauce studded with hot peppers. There's even a proper dessert menu with a few things you've probably never tried before, like carrot halwa with Malai-Indian ice cream. Carnivores be forewarned: You're going to have to go veggie for a night -- but that's not a big deal when you can get an appetizer of idly (ground-rice cakes) soaked in sambar. -- Simon Van Booy (Photo: B. A. Van Sise)