If television's Sopranos were real, you just might find them dining at Roma Cafe. The sense of traditional Italian dining saturates the place from the moment you pull into its Eastern Market locale. The parking lot is always full of dark sedans, but alas, many patrons choose private rooms so it seems empty. The wait staff is beyond courteous and professional and even though they carry handheld computers to take your order, the tuxes they sport lend to the old-world charm. And Roma is indeed 'old-world' -- its doors opened in the late 1800s. Traditional Italian food is prepared fresh with ingredients from the nearby market. Standouts include the homemade gnocchi and anything of the various veal dishes. And the cappuccinos are arguably the best this side of the Atlantic. -- Heidi Rehak Lovy