This downtown Detroit restaurant with a gigantic puck on its roof doubles as a shrine to the hometown Detroit Red Wings. Red Wings uniforms, photos, equipment, touch-screen computers where people can play hockey trivia -- the place is wall-to-wall memorabilia from such greats as Gordie Howe, Sid Abel and Terry Sawchuk. The menu is broken into three ''periods.'' ''Pre-game,'' for example, is the section for appetizers, while ''overtime'' lists dessert offerings. You can order the intriguing likes of spinach-and-brioche-encrusted whitefish served with a chive beurre blanc, or a hearty burger or ribs. This is still nitty gritty Detroit.