It's important to be spontaneous once in awhile. That in mind, order dessert first at Forte. Yes, it may register some stares from the perfectly coiffed crowd, but hey, this is good for the soul. And really, it's hard to think of anything that'll make you feel better than a chocolate banana tart with espresso ganache, caramel and praline sauce. If you're more interested in mingling, the bar is always packed to overflowing, but the crowds don't interfere with the restful ambience of the dining room. Maybe it's the curved banquettes and the soothing blues and greens of the stunning decor. The mirrored wall and open kitchen give an illusion of spaciousness, but your dinner can still be romantic. The menu is nothing if not eclectic. Start with grilled quail, wild mushroom roulade or mille feuille and follow with an innovative pizza or a veal chop with polenta. -- Heidi Rehak Lovy