Salpicon   

Priscilla Satkoff, the Mexico City-born chef and husband Vincent, co-owner of Salpicon, are constantly overshadowed by Rick Bayless, Chicago's king of gourmet Mexican cuisine, and his growing list of proteges. Never mind the hype: Satkoff may be under-appreciated, but her food overachieves. Satkoff updates the essential dishes of her native Central Mexico, presenting them beautifully while preserving their essence. Diners might find Australian baby lamb grilled with red mole sauce, or Muscovy duck confit served with butternut squash tamales, but they'll also encounter Chiles Rellenos and classic tamales. With lots of bright yellows, black and white checkered floors, and vibrant paintings, the decor is nothing but fun yet somehow doesn't overpower the food. The Satkoffs take their wine seriously -- the award-winning list is impressive and broad, but they really don't mess around with the tequila. Tequila flights are available, as are dozens of offerings by the glass, including a Cuervo 1800 conservatively priced at $150 a glass. The idea of such a pricey glass, like true love, will probably make you feel warm, fuzzy and just a little queasy.