Tangierino Restaurant   

On its opening in 2002, Tangierino brought a splash of exoticism to conservative Charlestown -- an enclave whose minimal dining scene had previously been dominated by Todd English. Inured to a diet of thin-crust pizzas (Figs) and truffle emulsions (Olives), townies scarcely knew what to make of this unexpected new option, where the emphasis is on unconventional spices and there's nary a pasta special to be had. But the audacious strategy of its owners effectively transformed the landscape in this old-school neighborhood, morphing Main Street into a magnet for the city's see-and-be-seen set.It's little wonder that Tangierino has attracted so much traffic from Boston, Cambridge and beyond: to trespass the threshold of its jewel-toned, velvet-draped dining room is to enter a realm of fantasy. One can comfortably imagine Scheherezade spinning yarns in the seductive hookah lounge, where wrought-iron screens, filigreed lanterns and private tents add to the aura of escapism. Though the menu seems almost like an afterthought in a space so cinematic, Tangierino has earned plaudits for its inventive Moroccan cuisine. Despite early unevenness in the kitchen, the menu has become worthy of its sumptuous locale, awakening diners to unexpected flavors like harissa, za'tar and merguez.Angling to eat like a sultan? Start with harira, a subtle, smoky soup. For entrees, skip the couscous and opt for salmon tagra, a harissa-kissed filet accompanied by "Moroccan-essenced" vegetables, plum tomato tartar and orange glace. Before adjourning to the hookah lounge (an inventive way to bypass Massachusetts' no-smoking laws), defect from the culinary Casbah for a Euro-style chocolate souffl cake, luxuriating in textures as smooth as the silk on the ubiquitous throw pillows -- which, along with most of the other furniture, fixtures and art, is for sale.