Petit Robert Bistro   

Fatigued by French cuisine that costs as much as a trip to Paris? For Chef Jacky Robert (scion of the dynasty behind the late, great Maison Robert), such sticker shock is an unnecessary ingredient in bistro dining, which, according to him, should be fresh, fun and more affordable than the average fare on Air France. Even the most frugal foodies can discover why 'French Women Don't Get Fat' at Robert's solo venture in Kenmore Square, where an "express" lunch can be had for under $12 and all dinner entrees fetch less than $20. (When you do discover the secret of French dames, let us know, because this menu does not skimp on foie gras, sweetbreads, duck confit or cornichon butter.) The dinner menu also includes a catalog of standard French dishes, like lamb cassoulet bean stew, stewed chicken thigh Coq au Vin and beef Bourguignon. Even bon-bons can be had for a song in the bi-level Petit Robert Bistro. The lower level houses an elegant dessert bar where dedicated pastry chefs concoct more than a dozen plated desserts daily -- all of which fall within the $3-$7 range. And with creations like fromage blanc cheesecake and a eye-popping plate that involve an artfully constructed miniature Eiffel Tower, you may have to suppress the instinct to blurt "ooh-la-la!" Petit Robert (which has a second outpost in the South End) has tiled floor, open kitchen, exposed brick and framed food portraiture. The space emphasizes practicality over the expense account panache of its well-heeled precursor, Maison Robert. Guests are compensated for this lack of luxury with atmospheric options for all seasons -- among them an outdoor terrace and a candlelit upstairs dining room equipped with a working fireplace. Such extras are creme fraiche for partisans of Robert's culinary technique, which brings an air of international savoir-faire to classic dishes like escargots bourgignon, penne with vegetable ratatouille and duck leg confit (with Toulouse sausage and braised Savoy cabbage).