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Kendall Square
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Legal Sea Foods   

5 Cambridge Center
Cambridge, MA 2139
617-864-3400
www.legalseafoods.com

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In Boston there are very few things that are dependable. Kennedy goof-ups, Red Sox losses, the Big Dig never finishing are some of them, and Legal Sea Foods is another. For 50 years, this nationwide chain has been a standard-bearer for large-scale seafood restaurants. There's not much of a secret here: Just good quality fish cooked simply, though not always well, and presented in clubby settings. Though some of the newer locations are going for the cool '90s look, staid Brahmin qualities always seem to shine through. And that's the way the tourists, visiting parents of college students, and suburban families who dine here seem to like it. Almost all the menu items share that same vanilla quality: There's nothing fancy, nothing special, and nothing that wrong with them. Is their chowder the best in New England? Probably not, but it's up there. Ditto the fra diavolo, the clambakes, the lobsters, Cajun swordfish and so on. This is what folks in the movie business would call review proof.

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