Grill 23 & Bar   

Philistines might say that a steak is a steak is a steak, but carnivores would claim that a prime rib worthy of its name is as rare as the beef in Grill 23's steak tartare. As the maiden venture of a syndicate that now includes Harvest and Excelsior, Grill 23 put owners Tom Lynch and Ken Himmel on the map. Though it celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2003, this Back Bay steakhouse is so old-school it's a challenge to imagine it was ever young. Housed in the historic Salada Tea Building, the rooms have retained the sculpted ceilings, mahogany paneling and marble floors of their Jazz Age provenance. An expansion increased the acreage by adding an upstairs dining room, lounge and kitchen -- a realm accessed by ascending a staircase sturdy enough to accommodate stampedes of portly power brokers.The city's smoking ban rained on the parade of local cigar aficionados, but regulars can still attack their arteries with the dry-aged beef for which the kitchen is famous. Thanks to the menu's constant evolution, diners can also choose from a startling assortment of fish dishes, including Atlantic oysters and bluefin tuna au poivre. Despite the void of vegetarian options, herbivores can dine in style on the comfort foods designated as sides -- but most diners regard vegetables as little more than a distraction from premium beef entrees.