Brown Sugar Cafe   

1033 Commonwealth Ave
Boston, MA 2215
617-787-4242
www.brownsugarcafe.com

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Sick of the sodden pad thais and just-OK satays at Boston's typical Thai restaurant? One look at the encyclopedic menu and gracious wait staff of Brown Sugar and you'll know you've taken a step up in the South East Asian food chain. This overwhelmingly popular location near Boston University -- and it's bigger than its cozy Jersey Street sibling -- is a perennial contender for "best of" contests in the local media. The reason is obvious once you've sampled a plate of drunken noodles (wide rice noodles swimming in a sauce bolstered by veggies and basil) or a heaping helping of fisherman's madness (a cornucopia of perfectly spiced shrimp, sea scallops and squid): Brown Sugar may not adhere to the standards of purists, but its aberrations are all in the service of cosseting its customers. For every achingly authentic pad see-ew and kua gai on the menu, there's an equally delicious "Jersey Street noodle" or "Lady in Green." These assimilated entrees may raise the eyebrows of Thai-o-philes, but all arrive bursting with taste and brimming with subtle spices -- which is more than can be said of the throwaway "Buddha's delights" at lesser eateries. As evidence of Brown Sugar's staying power, the crowds at its second outpost have only increased since an early 2004 renovation.