Bertucci's Brick Oven Rstrnt   

475 Winter St
Waltham, MA 2451
781-684-0650
www.bertuccis.com

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This pizza-and-pasta stalwart is somewhat of a chameleon, dressing up or down depending on the location, crowd-pleasing no matter what the case. Though technically a chain, part of Bertucci's charm is rooted in the fact that one can sense a bit of neighborliness in the air. That said, the textbook Italian-American food isn't any worse or better than that at most suburban restaurants---and it's probably a little more adventurous. The pizzas are fired in a brick oven and have the potential to be excellent because of a sweet, crunchy crust and toppings like grilled chicken and portobello mushrooms. But more often than not they're simply above average, which would be a good way to describe the likes of shrimp antipasto, barbecued ribs, and eggplant rigatoni that anchor the rest of the menu. None of this seems to deter the families, students, and even businessmen who make this place a habit.