If you can't find something you like on McCormick & Schmick's staggering, phone book-size menu, you've never been weaned off peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. Seafood is the main attraction at Baltimore's location of this ever-growing upscale chain, located in rather generic Inner Harbor East. The fresh fish comes from all over the map -- California King salmon, Idaho rainbow trout, South African sea bass, Costa Rica red grouper, Uruguay mako shark -- and that's just a tiny sample.

There are cheeseburgers and lunch specialties such as Ayden, N. C., pan-blackened catfish with corn pudding and tomatilla salsa, and meatloaf with Fanny gravy. There are entree salads -- smoked Atlantic salmon Caesar with red onion and plum tomato -- Oregon bay shrimp quesadillas and seafood burrito wraps. There's a lot to digest and you can't be faulted for taking too long to pick. It's all consistently good and fresh, but what's Fanny gravy? -- Penny Colston (Photo: Penny Colston)