There's pizza, and then there's pizza. Milano's features the latter sort, wood-fired in their wide-open kitchen, which is practically part of the décor. Located in an upscale strip mall in a tiny suburb of Albany, Milano's grew out of Unique Catering, which adjoins it in the neighboring storefront. So your neighbor's smoked-chicken-and-leek pizza looks pretty tasty? The tables are jammed close enough together for you to grab a slice when she's not looking, but why not just get one of your own? Try the quatro formaggio pie or sink your teeth into one with shiitake mushrooms, pine nuts and Fontina cheese. With all of this great pizza, one could forget about the entrées, but we wouldn't advise it. Pastas are tasty and nicely presented, and the grilled salmon with herb polenta has done well by us in the past. Be sure to start off with one of the stellar salads---our constant favorite is the warmed spinach salad with Gorgonzola and walnuts. Milano's has an impressive wine list as well, with a number of reasonable Italian varietals. Make a reservation unless you want to wait a while---this place is usually bustling, even during the week.